Phs: Via Vogue
Once the first model strolled down the runway in a full skirt, loose-fitting top and Roman sandal, one instantly knew that Dior’s fall couture collection would carry a very different tone than that of the previous showings from the house, and rightfully so.
After the abrupt departure of Raf Simons last fall, the house has been held together by his two understudies, Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux. Though their interregnum will be ending soon, as Dior finalizes the appointment of the new creative director, we must take note and even celebrate the effortless emphasis that Meier and Ruffieux have brought to each of the collections that they have produced in the absence of the late designer.
Many reviews claim that this particular offering of unstructured silhouettes and casual sandals represent the major disconnect that the two current designers have with the actual Dior client. However, I would boldly claim that these critics are wrong in this assertion. Although the older generation of women donning these designs currently make up a large portion of the customer base, there is a new generation of style mavens who simply can’t relate to the stuffier creations of the past, and feel no real connection to bustiers and petticoats. The airy silhouettes, casual flats and minimal styling of the latest couture collection are the right step in a direction that helps the label stay relevant in a time of fast fashion, while also staying true to Dior’s classic roots.
Yes, the collection was written in a strictly monochrome note that favors minimalism over opulence. However, the impeccable tailoring of each item, modern mastering of taffeta and tulle, and the gold and silver embellishments that are sprinkled throughout show that the Dior girl can actually be modern and still pay homage to the romantic ideas that Christian Dior had in mind when he founded the label 70 years ago.